top of page

Sutra 13 - July 19th-21st (195Km) GRAY - BEAUNE - CHALON SUR SAONE SPECIAL CHAPTER- THINA IN WONDER


click me!




It was much pleasanter at home," thought poor Thina, "when one wasn't always growing larger and smaller, and being ordered about by mice and rabbits. I almost wish I hadn't cycled down the rabbit-hole--and yet--and yet-- it's rather curious, you know this sort of life...”

“In another moment down went Thina after it, never once considering how in the world she was to cycle out again.... now it's no use going back to yesterday because I was a different person then...”


Off with her Head!!!



First came ten soldiers carrying clubs, next the ten courtiers, and walked two and two, as the soldiers did. After these came the royal children;there were ten of them.Next came the guests, mostly Kings and Queens. Then followed the Knight of ants, carrying the King's crown on a crimson velvet cushion; and, last of all this grand procession, came The King and The Queen Of Ants!

When the procession came opposite to Thina inside her tent, they all stopped and looked at her, and the Queen said severely `Who is this?' She said it to the Knight of ants, who only bowed and smiled in reply. `Idiot!' said the Queen, tossing her head impatiently; and, turning to Thina, she went on, `What's your name, girl?' My name is Thina, so please your Majesty,' said Thina very politely; but she added, to herself, `Well, they're only a pack of ants, after all. I needn't be afraid of them!'

And who are These?' said the Queen, pointing to the three ants who were lying round the sleeping bag; for, you see, as they were lying on their faces, and the pattern on their backs was the same as the rest of the pack, she could not tell whether they were guards, or soldiers, or courtiers, or three of her own children. 'How should I know?' said Thina, surprised at her own courage. `It's no business of Mine.'

The Queen turned crimson with fury, and, after glaring at Thina for a moment like a wild beast, screamed `Off with her head'!!!!

Next day I reached Gray ...and decided to spend my day around the city (there was a Triathlon going on that day) and then camp there for the night, take some rest.

The camping was a bit expensive, but to do them justice, for 8,50 you could camp with your tent, free showers, free wi-fi (only infront of reception/cafe area) and their toilets had paper, soap and even hairdryers available!

Woke up the next day... feeling that something was wrong! And yes ... being stupid i had forgotten some ''attractive'' stuff in my shopping bag, even more stupid ... had left it at the entrance of my tent ... reaching the top of stupidity like I had never camped before in my life, the night before I had set up my tent quite late and under dim lights ... I hadn't noticed the ant-nest close by ... placing my tent next to it, obviously disturbing their little kingdom ...!

So not only this furious army had been all over my things and bags (luckily all my food was protected as I keep everything wraped and sealed in special plastic bags) but they had also found a way to invade my tent and sleeping bag as well through a small opening I (being stupid again!) didn't pay attention to zip all the way up the night before.

It took me quite long time to deal with the whole army but in the end ... after putting a lot of effort to remove all the sneaky fellas one by one and make sure they are out my tent and my stuff, I packed and took Jack to an open area at the other side of the camping where there was a picknick table , to have some breakfast...


Eat me... Drink me !!!

Soon her eye fell on a glass box that was lying under the table: she opened it, and found in it a huge sandwich, on which the words "EAT ME" were beautifully marked in currants. "Well, I'll eat it," said Thina, "and if it makes me grow larger, I can reach the key; and if it makes me grow smaller (not likely), I can creep under the door: so either way I'll get into the garden, and I don't care which happens!"

Soon I was ready to be back on the road ... being determined to cover more than 100km and make it to Beaune late in the night. Started making my way pretty fast, getting advantage of the easy going cycling path to cover distance, soon I was passing by all villages up to Talmay, when I started having a terrible headache! I could really feel that my brains were bubbling inside my head, steam coming out of my ears and my skin every time I was going under a shade, as the sun was burning me alive. Got my head wet so many times and covered with a scurf and decided to make a stop in Maxily for 2 hours and wait to cool down a bit. And what a nice choice that was ... cause the place I discovered was just great! Bar/cafe/restaurant/bed and breakfast Le Rezto!

Lovely staff working, great coffee ... and as the time was flying by and I was occupied writting on my journal ... I got really hungry and definitely didn't expect that to arrive on my table... this Veggie sandwich had the size of my journal and it's price was not making it's quality and quantity justice!

The place was so cute in general ... Nice French old style decoration, I could plug everything and use wi-fi too, with the girls working at the cafe being very helpful and always smiling. If you are taking the route down Saone river, and you are feeling like a dried fruit, I totally recommend this place! It has Great prices too ... !!!

''Begin At The Beginning, And Go On Till You Come To The End: Then Stop.”

“The rabbit-hole went straight on like a tunnel for some way, and then dipped suddenly down, so suddenly that Thina had not a moment to think about stopping herself before she found herself cycling down a very deep well leading through an endless forest ...“

I left Maxilly at 16:00 I was late again ... there was a long way to Beaune and that meant ... a long night ahead ... but no stress where I would spent the night since Beune had two campings there. Being sure you are going to spend the night in a camping is always a great opportunity to cover long distance during the night. And this one had a 24 hour reception! After Maxilly though I was kinda prepared that I would have to cycle through 3 really vast forest areas and I wanted to have this done before the nightfall.

When I started cycling the first two hours felt nice ... you know being secluded from everything, I hadn't seen a soul or car passing me by, anyone around walking or cycling ... It was ok but also the long distances made me doubt of my direction a bit ... although with the sun as my compass i knew I was in the right one. I was also feeling that ''oh shit'' if the whole world now went suddenly down the drain I would have no idea about it hahah ... kinda funny thoughts were popping up my head, and I was getting amused observing my mind jump from here to there like a monkey, till it was getting tired and silent for a while ... leaving me with my breath and my sweat... still alone, no one around.

I had only counted 3 foxes, 2 mice 1 deer and 1 hedgehog that crossed my path that evening. After cycling for 3 hours through this amazing scenery it started making me feel a bit worried :''where is the exit of this forest anyway? I had too much forest for today I think it's enough ... shit I don't want to camp here all alone, is there a beginning or end or a stop to this road at some poing? ' ... I was thinking that the sun was going down for good, soon I would be out cycling again through fields and villages BUT I still had one forest to cross before Beaune ... ''hmmmmmm'' I thought ... and started pedaling and breathing faster ...


Dreaming as the Summer Die ...

“The sun was shining on the sea,

Shining with all his might:

He did his very best to make

The billows smooth and bright

-- And this was odd, because it was

The middle of the night.

The moon was shining sulkily,

Because she thought the sun

Had got no business to be there

After the day was done

-- "It's very rude of him," she said,

"To come and spoil the fun!"

The sea was wet as wet could be,

The sands were dry as dry.

You could not see a cloud, because

No cloud was in the sky:

No birds were flying overhead

-- There were no birds to fly.

In a Wonderland they lie

Dreaming as the days go by,

Dreaming as the summer die.”

Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland

Finally I had made it out of the forest ... the sun had already set ... but there was still this beautiful pink and purple colour up on the sky ... that was full of diamond-stars and the brightest moon ever! Seriously it's been years since I remember a summer sky like this. when I was still a kid growing up in Ampelos, a small village of Greece in the Region of Karditsa. Where the fields were endless and the summer nights the best I had in my life so far, eating grilled corn and sitting out on the garden till late night hours listening to my granparents' stories ... about dragons, fairytales, ghosts, local myths and ''wonderlands'' while I was trying to understand why a part of the sky is like a white river flowing in half circle ... asking my father ''what the milky-way is'' and listening to him explaining to me about how this wonderful ''creation'' called universe works.

Back then I could just accept the fact that it works in ''mysterious'' ways without too much confusion. Endless galaxies forming it ... planets and stars ... and all my questions would be answered by my father. Back then It made sense. Nowdays that my knowledge about it is enriched my questions have multiplied. No answer is good enough any more, and most important it doesn't answer one question I never asked when I was a kid ... ''Why?''



That brought me back memories and made me feel that the whole moment was very familiar and I felt safety of course ... it's funny how our minds in moments we are walking into the unknown and fear or doubt arises, work in ''mysterious ways'' also to bring us ''back home'' and give us the illusion of safety. it's funny.

I was enjoying the smoothest cycling ride of my life and I had made my peace with the fact that I would have to cycle the rest of the distance in complete darkness. The only thing left to be done: putting my lights on ... and keep on going!



Too Dark To See...

Had plenty of time as she went down to look about her and to wonder what was going to happen next. First, she tried to look down and make out what she was coming to, but it was too dark to see anything ... ''

And there I was ... last kilometeres ... from Argilly towards Beaune ... sucking it up! It was so dark as dark can be ... and the time after 23:30, still feeling ok and safe as I saw that the few cars passing me by could see me quite well, but that last 7km of my ''forest ride'' definitely made my heart pumping some blood around my veins faster!

But after the last trees I could see the busy highway about 3 km away after Gigny. I decided I had enough adrenaline on my body and ''excitment'' for that day and had to rest a bit before Beaune, choosing the camping located in a little town 3 km before Beaune in ''Vignoles''. That was a bad idea because it took me more than half an hour to find it ...

When I entered the town the lights were still on ... no signs of the camping anywhere ... I was just cycling in circles around it's ''spot'' with no result...

The lights of the town's road went all out and I thought there was a black-out happening or something ... I saw a shadow walking a dog and thought to go and ask him for directions ...

Thina :“Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?'

Eaglet:''Read the directions and directly you will be directed in the right direction''

Thina: I don't see any direction to read

Eaglet:“Why is a raven like a writing desk?

Thina: I don't know!

Speak English!' said the Eaglet. 'I don't know the meaning of half those long words, and I don't believe you do either!

We both tried but communication failled completely, as we got lost in a poor French/English translation ... so I moved on ... hoping to find my camping before I decide to gather the rest of the strenght I had left and cycle all the way to Beaune to find the other one ... then someone was getting his car out of the parking, gave me the directions and literally shown some light in my situation as he drove behind me towards the camping's direction ... I had found it... Camping Les Bouleaux! ...reception was open ... found my spot ... I had a nice long sleep!




I'm Late! I'm Late! I'm Late!


"Well, in our country," said Thina, still panting a little, "you'd generally get to somewhere else -- if you cycle very fast for a long time, as we've been doing."

"A slow sort of country!" said the Queen. "Now, here, you see, it takes all the cycling you can do, to keep in the same place. If you want to get somewhere else, you must cycle at least twice as fast as that!"


Next day ... I decided to spend some time and see Beaune. Since I never spend a bit more time to check out big cities I am passing by (it's not my kind of thing really) I said this time to have a little tour and feel the ''vides of Beaune''.

It's a lovely city, with a lot of history going on and nice museums and sightseeings ... but it was Tuesday and most of the museums are closed that day. I decided to take my own kind of tour...

The city and shopping center were really busy even for a weekday, and it turned out that you have to be prepared to ''open your wallet a bit more'' since it's a very expensive place.

I thought I would just go ... spend maximum two hours going around and have a coffee and then be on my way but ...

I couldn't get out of this place! My senses were freaking out with all the things I wanted to see, draging myself all over the place losing sense of time ...

ending up a bit ''swamped'' and ''trapped'' in Beaune ... being very very late to make my way to Cluny... !!!


''Have I gone Mad?''

''I'm Afraid so, But let me tell you something, The Best People Usually Are''

Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?'

'That depends a good deal on where you want to get to,' said the Cat.

'I don't much care where -' said Thina.

'Then it doesn't matter which way you go,' said the Cat.

'- so long as I get Somewhere,' Thina added as an explanation.

Oh, you're sure to do that,' said the Cat, 'if you only cycle long enough.” ...

After I left the vineyards behind me, I ended up in Chagny where I would follow the Voie Verte down the river again so I started looking for the cycling signs... going a bit around the road and checking my maps ... thinking if I should follow the carway instead and be done with it ... I saw a cycling figure approaching. That was the time that Julian would help me out with directions and put his time and effort to cycle all the way with me, crosssing the town and make sure I found the signs leading me down the river again towards the right direction!

I kindly thanked him, said goodbye and continued further down ... thinking how nice is to meet people like these on the way. And that thought got confirmed when I saw another smiling figure cycling towards me from the other direction, waving for me to stop.


Thina was cycling beside the White Knight in Looking Glass Land.

You are sad.' the Knight said in an anxious tone: 'let me sing you a song.' Everybody that hears it - either it brings tears to their eyes, or else -'

''Or else what?' said Thina, for the Knight had made a sudden pause.

''Or else it doesn't, you know...''

As the Knight sang the last words of the ballad, he gathered up the reins, and turned his horse's head along the road by which they had come.


That figure was Steffen... a ''cycling knight'' for sure as I can asure you that you could tell the roads he's seen and the burning south's sun on him. He wanted to warn me that the camping in Chalon-sur-saone, 18km away where I was heading was closed in case I wanted to stay there for the night. I told him I was planning to continue till Cluny ... but maybe also free camp somewhere so it was ok. This German guy has cycled through so many places and countries, being on his bicycle was ''being at home'' for him you could tell!

Wise Fish ... Blooming Garden...

"Who are YOU?" said the Caterpillar.

This was not an encouraging opening for a conversation. Thina replied, rather shyly, "I--I hardly know, sir, just at present-- at least I know who I WAS when I got up this morning, but I think I must have been changed several times since then."

White Rabbit: You can save Wonderland, Thina. I think it is you that can make the garden bloom.

Thina: Oh, I could never do that. Only someone special could make flowers bloom.

Princess: Do you want to know a secret, Thina? You are as special as you think you are.

''No wise fish would go anywhere without a purpose...''

Just as she said this, she noticed that one of the trees had a door leading right into it. `That's very curious!' she thought. `But everything's curious today. I think I may as well go in at once.' And in she went.

Now, I'll manage better this time,' she said to herself, and began by taking the little golden key, and unlocking the door that led into the garden. then she walked down the little passage: and then--she found herself at last in the beautiful garden, among the bright flower-beds and the cool fountains.

When I reached Chalon-sur-Saone ... I would still have to cycle 45 kilometers to Cluny ... it was already late evening and I had no intention to do that at that moment. I would prefer to rest and start fresh next morning!

The thing is ... when you reach this town the signs disappear once more ... seriously they haven't done a ''great job'' leading the cyclists to find the path again in that part ... and I had to find the river again to set my tent somewhere in a field or something and sleep. I saw two people approaching me ... a woman and a man on their bikes! Elisabeth and Joel!


They saw me wandering around unable to find the signs to Voie Verte ... she told me that she was actually leaving close by the cycling road ... and without even thinking about it she welcomed me to also spend my night in her garden, since it was already too dark for me to cycle. Moreover before I rest into her place she cycled with me till the beginning of Voie Verte so I knew where to head the day after.

When we arrived at her place her husband, Jacques opened the gate of the garden and gave me a warm welcoming as well! Not only they were willing to give me a spot in their beautiful huge garden but also, open their house for me suggesting to sleep in their guestroom and have a shower if I wanted to etc, make myself feel at home.

I was so thankful for this gesture but not wanting to disturb them, or take advantage of their hospitality, my super-10liter-water bag would be enough for me to have a shower in a dark corner of the garden later on, and my tent was already all I needed.

Me being in Chalon was a magic moment ... not only because I would step my foot in Elisabeth's and Jacque's beautiful garden to spend my night safely, and meet those incredible people, but also in a magic ''wonderland'' as I found out that Chalon was getting ready to transform in a crazy ''circus-town'' celebrating street theater and circus arts for 5 days. Joel (the other cyclist) Elisabeth's and Jacques' friend, had also a big part in this story ...



''It's Always Tea-time!'

There was a table set out under a tree in front of the house, and the March Hare and the Hatter were having tea at it.

But I don’t want to go among mad people," Thina remarked.

"Oh, you can’t help that," said the Cat: "we’re all mad here. I’m mad. You’re mad."

"How do you know I’m mad?" said Thina.

"You must be," said the Cat, "or you wouldn’t have come here.”

“Thina: How long is forever?

White Rabbit: Sometimes, just one second.”

Thina : “How puzzling all these changes are! I'm never sure what I'm going to be, from one minute to another.”


Next day I could take a good look of the garden ... feeling so thankful I had the chance to spend my time there ... Enjoyed taking some pictures and saw that Elisabeth was already up all sparkling in her nice dress!

I had my breakfast and packed my tent and things and Jacques came to invite me for tea - coffee and chocolate time on the garden's table with them. Those people's vibes and good intentions were making this place radiating and even more beautiful! We started having long conversations about life and adventures.

Both Jacque and Elisabeth love nature and traveling , taking their bikes on long rides as well! Elisabeth is a Phycologist working with children and Jacque a retired teacher Physics/Chemistry teacher.

Although Elisabeth said she would be scared to cycle far (a dog attacked her on her attempt to cycle alone once for 10 minutes she said to me laughing) ... she amazed me with her hitch -hiking adventure stories from her twenties! Her and Jacque have 3 children (around my age) studying, working and living elsewhere in France, visiting also with a lot of their friends for the festival, having their garden and place being packed and full of life really often.

Amazing people, doing their best to make me feel welcome and I really felt I had a family and a home away from home that day.

Meanwhile Joel was getting ready for his ''first day'' at work (the festival would begin that late afternoon) and soon he would join us for some tea! ...


Through The Looking Glass ...


The Hatter was the first to break the silence. "What day of the month is it?" he said, turning to Thina: he had taken his watch out of his pocket, and was looking at it uneasily, shaking it every now and then, and holding it to his ear. Thina considered a little, and then said "The twenty first." "You are one day early !" sighed the Hatter.”

What a funny watch!’ she remarked. ‘It tells the day of the month, and doesn’t tell

what o’clock it is!’

Why should it?’ muttered the Hatter. ‘Does YOUR watch tell you what year it is?’

‘Of course not,’ Thina replied very readily: ‘but that’s because it stays the same year for such a long time together.’

Which is just the case with MINE,’ said the Hatter”...



Although I had arrived in Chalon ''one day earlier'' to attend the festival, and wouldn't be there to see it happening cause I would be on my way the next day, I was lucky enough to step into this crazy little world, captivated through ''mad-hatter's'' Joel Verhoustraeten's view, nomad photographer and artist, Elisabeth's and Jacque's friend, also ''camping'' with his RV in their garden, following the circus that was just ''arriving in town!'' with the hope to captivate their best moments and shine some light into this difficult world of performing arts.

Joel has transformed his RV in his main house for 7 years already, not being able to grow some ''roots'' to a piece of land although he owns one, as he has a little cottage house already. He preffers to be on the road, following his passion for photography, letting his lence lead him behind the scenes and captivate all the emotion, true passion, struggle and vonuralability of the artists in their strongest and most fragile moments while performing as well.

I had the honor to have a sneaky peak of last year's festival and excerpts of Joel's incredible work ... as he let me see his view through the ''looking glass'' ... http://www.joelv-36poses.com/

simply— "Never imagine yourself not to be otherwise than what it might appear to others that what you were or might have been was not otherwise than what you had been would have appeared to them to be otherwise ...''



............................................


“Lastly, she pictured to herself how this same little sister of hers would, in the after-time, be herself a grown woman; and how she would keep, through all her riper years, the simple and loving heart of her childhood: and how she would gather about her other little children, and make their eyes bright and eager with many a strange tale, perhaps even with the dream of Wonderland of long ago: and how she would feel with all their simple sorrows, and find a pleasure in all their simple joys, remembering her own child-life, and the happy summer days.”

Thina begun to believe that very few things are indeed ''impossible'' ...




-The End-


― Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland

Featured posts
bottom of page